The Food Biz: Now that's convenient

Capitol Grille takes from its own farm to create at its own table

The Hermitage Hotel surprised a lot of observers in 2010 when it staked out its own farm on a historic Nashville estate so its acclaimed chef — Tyler Brown of the hotel’s restaurant, the Capitol Grille — could grow his own produce.

Plenty of chefs talk about their passion for securing the best local ingredients, but not every high-end hotel or restaurant decides to take the plunge into actual agriculture.

Now, after harvesting a couple seasons of fresh vegetables tailor-made to Chef Tyler’s tastes, the Hermitage has purchased a much larger farm — 225 acres — and plans to start raising beef cattle, not only to supply Brown’s kitchen, but also to sell to other restaurants.

The cattle will be grass-fed and raised in a sustainable manner, the hotel said, something that’s already being done on a small scale at Glen Leven, the garden plot the hotel operates in conjunction with the Land Trust for Tennessee.

The new cattle herd will roam Double H Farm, which is what the Hermitage Hotel has dubbed the property it purchased in Dickson County about an hour west of Nashville. The land, established as a farm by the Duke family in the 1930s, is protected by a conservation easement that will preserve it as farmland.

In an announcement of the deal, the hotel waxed a bit poetic about the land: “Nestled in the hills of White Bluff, Tenn., and bordering Montgomery Bell State Park, Double H Farms is an ideal setting with creeks that are fed by natural springs from the park.”

It added, “This setting will allow for the rotation of cattle from one pasture to another to allow them to graze on the sweet grasses in the fields through a relatively simple process because of the infrastructure that already exists on the land.”

A James Beard Award semifinalist, Brown is one of the hot young chefs helping to raise Nashville’s profile on the national restaurant scene.

Brown and the hotel’s managing director, Greg Sligh, will oversee the farm’s operation. The chef has clearly relished his role as farmer growing exquisite heirloom vegetables at Glen Leven, and we imagine he’ll have even more fun supervising the herd at Double H.

Once the cow side of the operation is up and running (and beef sides being sold to interested restaurants in Nashville and beyond), the team plans to launch a grist mill on the property.

• Rodizio Grill, a Brazilian steakhouse chain based in Utah and founded way back in 1995, is poised to open its first Nashville location. The company said it expects to open the doors to the new restaurant, located on Second Avenue downtown, this week.

The local franchisees are Mark and Carla Rosenthal, also owners of popular fondue spot The Melting Pot.

The Brazilian steakhouse, or churrascaria, employs a style of service in which (at least as interpreted in the U.S.) hungry diners are first served an unlimited portion of salad and appetizers, followed by a parade of grilled meats of various cuts, which are delivered on skewers by waiters decked out as gauchos. The diners keep eating and greeting more meat until they raise a flag or otherwise indicate surrender.

Rodizio Grill is at 166 Second Ave. N. For more info check out Rodizio Grill Nashville on Facebook.

• The owners of popular 12South joint Edley’s Bar-B-Que have opened a novel new enterprise in the building next door on Halcyon Avenue.

The Filling Station fills the former Halcyon Bicycle Shop site. (Halcyon moved to a bigger location nearby.) It delivers one service exclusively: filling 64-ounce jugs (called growlers) with fresh craft beer from 24 taps. It sells both growlers and 32-ounce “growlettes.”

It’s a treat to ponder so many different craft beers before selecting your jug of juice. The staff is friendly and quick with advice, though they can’t offer samples. (Pesky liquor laws.) Eventually they plan to stage beer tastings next door at Edley’s.

The Filling Station is located at 1118 Halcyon Ave.; the phone number is 818-0012.